| The Speedwell Forge story begins in 1734, when Peter Grubb, a mason,
literally stumbled upon of the largest and richest iron deposits ever found
in the US. He named the area Cornwall, and built a bloomery to smelt the
ore and produce cast (or "pig") iron. In 1742, this was replaced by the
Cornwall Furnace, which is now a National Historic Landmark and offers
regular tours. (The cornwall iron was mined for almost 240 years, until
the open pit mine flooded during Hurricane Agnes in 1972.)
In
1750, at the age of 20, James Old emigrated from Wales and arrived in Lancaster,
then the tenth largest city in the colonies, where he started working at
Windsor Forge. He decided to strike out on his own, and in 1760 he purchased
400 acres along Hammer Creek and built Speedwell Forge, along with a small
stone house for his family. The forge took the brittle cast iron from the
furnace, heated it, and used a 450-pound, water-powered "trip hammer" to
beat out the impurities, making it stronger and more malleable. The resulting
bar (or "black") iron was then sent overland to Newport, Delaware, and
shipped to blacksmiths throughout the colonies and England. (Newport Road
still follows that ancient trail.)
The forge required charcoal to heat the iron, and "colliers" would cut
down an acre of trees per day to keep the forge in blast. Farmers cultivated
the newly-cleared fields, and found the soil to be some of the best non-irrigated
farmland in the world. Word spread to Germany and Switzerland, where a
group of farmers were being persecuted for their religious beliefs, and
the Amish and Mennonites began migrating to Lancaster. Today, Lancaster
has the largest concentration of Amish in the US. Around the same time,
a small group of Moravians (another Christian denomination from Germany)
established Lititz, a closed religious community. It would be another 100
years before non-Moravians could own property in the town.
Robert
Coleman was only 16 when he arrived from Ireland. Penniless but educated,
he was a clerk in Reading for two years before Peter Grubb hired him as
a clerk at Hopewell Forge. Six months later, James Old hired him away,
and Coleman lived with the Old family in the Speedwell Forge mansion. There
he met Old's daughter, Anne, and they married in 1773. With the help of
his father-in-law, Coleman began building his own iron empire, eventually
owning 5/6s of the Cornwall iron mine, most of the forges and furnaces
in Lancaster County, and 22,000 acres of land. Coleman became Pennsylvania's
first millionaire, and famously forbid his daughter, Ann Caroline, from
marrying a young lawyer names James Buchanan. (Ann died shortly thereafter,
and it is widely believed she committed suicide; Buchanan never married
and was the only US President who was a bachelor. Ann's portrait still
hangs at Wheatland, Buchanan's estate in Lancaster.)
In
1784, Coleman purchased Speedwell Forge from his father-in-law. Although
he no longer lived there, Coleman expanded the stone house around 1795,
adding the east wing in the formal Georgian (or Federal) style popular
at the time: two rooms deep, symmetrical, off a central hallway. This ceilings
were higher and the moldings were much more intricate than the Colonial
half. The summer kitchen, paymaster's office, and stone privy all appear
to have been added around this time. In the 1880s, steam radiators were
added, the hardwood floors and windows were replaced, and corner cupboards
were built in almost every room to match the original in the parlor. Electricity
and indoor plumbing were added in 1941.
In the 1850s, anthracite coal was discovered in Eastern Pennsylvania,
and ironmaking moved to Pittsburgh and then to Detroit. Speedwell Forge
stopped production in 1854, and today there is nothing left. The Speedwell
property remained in the Coleman family, however, and they began breeding
standardbred horses for sulkey (or harness) racing. Their most famous stallion
was Middletown, son of Hambletonian Ten. The circular driveway used to
be a quarter-mile training track.
The
Colemans sold the horses in 1898 and the property became a corn and dairy
farm. In 1941, Margaret Coleman Buckingham sold the Speedwell property
to Gerald and Kathryn Darlington. In the 1960s, the state of Pennsylvania
purchased about 500 acres along Hammer Creek and dammed it, creating Speedwell
Forge Lake. In the 1990s, Lancaster County purchased 300 acres and
created the Speedwell
Forge County Park. Both areas are ideal for hiking, kayaking, fishing,
bird watching, and picnicking.
Kathryn
Darlington passed away in 1986. Her only son, Bill Darlington, had moved
to the other end of the farm and, in 1980, established the Wolf
Sanctuary of Pennsylvania. Needing to be near the wolves, the mansion
was left vacant for over 20 years. Bill's youngest daughter, Dawn, was
born on the farm and always wanted to live in the mansion. When Bill passed
away in 1998, Dawn became determined to realize her dream. In March 2005,
after seven years of saving, two years of planning, and one year of cleaning,
she moved home and began the restoration, which was documented, with photos,
here. In 2006, the property was listed on the National Register of Historic
Places.
The
mansion was not changed except for the addition of bathrooms and the kitchen
island. The windows and floor date to the 1880s, and were fully restored.
The slate roof was replaced using 80-year-old Peachbottom slate salvaged
by Amish roofers from a barn that was being demolished, and copper gutters
were installed. The electric and plumbing were completely replaced, and
air conditioning, telephones, Internet, and cable TV were added. Almost
all of the furniture belonged to Dawn's grandparents, and was fully restored.
A closet was removed to enlarge Kathryn's bath, creating enough space for
a six-foot whirlpool bath and separate shower. To avoid the risk of fire,
electric fireplace inserts were used in the mansion. Outside, all of the
stone was "repointed" (replacing the mortar) and inside all of the walls
and ceiling received a new coat of plaster. It took four painters over
three months to hand-paint the mansion and cottages. The privy and spring
house were also restored.
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